WESTERN WASHINGTON SMALL FARMS - OURS AND YOURS

(Presented 4/7/01 at the Snohomish Conservation District small farm clinic, Stilliguamish Grange, Stanwood)

Ours started over 30 years ago when a good friend who was dying of cancer offered it to me for less than the present cost of a good tractor. The farm had been passed down in his family, but since he was the end of the line, he wanted it to go to someone who shared his love of wildlife and country living. This lifelong city slicker found the whole concept of owning almost 40 acres intimidating, but an opportunity too good to pass up. So Northwest Wildfowl farm was born.

OUR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Little did I realize that I would turn a dream into a reality. I had long been interested in aviculture, the raising of exotic and native birds, but I was now able to pursue it on a grand scale. I'd also had an interest in the idea of turning just average wildlife habitat into something really special. With a marvelous piece of property in hand, it was time to make a commitment. It started with a permit to draw water for my wildlife ponds, and wound up with a water right allowing me to drill a deep well for irrigation and to devote another to domestic use. That financial commitment was just the beginning; it was now time to dream and plan, a process still going on 30 years later.

One of the first things I did was to investigate what advice and assistance I could obtain from the Snohomish Conservation Service. (The SCS has now been split, into the Natural Resources Conservation Service and the Snohomish Conservation District.) The services I used, for the most part would now be provided where applicable, by the SCD. As it turned out, I was in luck, my land was just the type of place they were looking for to implement a couple of their programs, since it was a mixture of old abused forest and peaty wet areas. There were cost sharing programs to clear some of the land for grain field plantings, and to dig wildlife and fish ponds. In those early days of limited income and even more limited expertise, such help was all it took for me to get the ball rolling.

A somewhat monotonous landscape of massive tree stumps and shrub choked peat bogs began to be dotted with open water ponds and swamps interspersed with strips of forest, pasture and grain fields. About 75% of the peat bogs were left untouched, and healthy cottonwood and alder forests were simply improved by the addition of groups of evergreen conifers.

The increase in the numbers and variety of wildlife observed was almost immediate. The grain fields were sometimes mobbed by migratory waterfowl, and were also visited by songbirds and even an occasional black bear. After winter storms and chickweed caused the grain to flatten, field mice would be attracted, and soon they in turn attracted birds of prey. This cycle was repeated year after year. The rejuvenated forests attracted ever more Ruffed Grouse, songbirds, squirrels, and even our elusive local hare. As their numbers increased, more coyotes, raccoons and other predators came to harvest the surplus. It became a real adventure just to quietly walk our own land.

Since not all visitors could walk the 4 miles of nature trails, concentrated wildlife gardens were built close to the house, complete with pathways and park benches. It worked; numerous butterflies and wildlife species responded to the presence of flowers and food producing plants in and around our gardens and rock walls. Feeding stations within sight of our porch attracted even more species.

OUR AVIARIES

The history and development of our aviaries is a different matter. My interest in keeping and breeding birds began when I was 12 years old, and has grown as I did. The purchase of the farm allowed my collection to grow much larger than it could have in town. Instead of being limited to just 5 species, the collection has grown to over 50. The availability of good water and drainage, as well as good pasture for the wild geese has made it possible to have success with species rarely ever bred anywhere else in the US.

Being located in relative wilderness at the time I developed my aviaries required elaborate predator-proofing of the facilities. Seven foot fences, topped with barbed wire and surrounded by electric fencing work well to keep everything from weasels to mountain lions at bay. Otters and mink are stopped by screening water inlets and outlets with vinyl coated welded wire. The toughest predators to deal with are the avian ones, the crows, owls, hawks and even eagles. Since most of them are fully protected, harming them is completely out of the question. Only the crows can be shot, but that's not my preferred way to solve the problem. I had to be really imaginative to solve this problem, as most avicultural publications indicated it was a universal problem all over the country. Some of the smaller aviaries proved easy to net over, and although this may require a little extra work during snowstorms, it sure removes the threat of predatory birds. A much tougher

problem had to be solved for the bigger aviaries, some of which were up to 1 acre in size. Minimizing nighttime losses to owls was my first challenge, as they proved to be the most efficient of the avian killers. Combating them required an understanding of their hunting methods. It turns out that owls rely on stealth attacks on solitary targets. To lessen their stealth ability I installed a few floodlights pointed skyward at strategic locations around each aviary. Most attempts to launch a sneak attack, when observed by one of the resident waterfowl, was thwarted when that bird sounds an alarm, and they all began diving underwater evasively. It worked, not 100%, but it worked! Hawks and eagles are more difficult to combat, but since they are daytime hunters I was able to discourage their presence using small explosive devices, called cracker shells that would repeatedly frighten them off.

Once the predator problem was minimized and success was achieved in breeding several species, other problems became apparent. The surplus had to be sold, necessitating advertising in national magazines in the early years, and more recently, on the internet. The aviary landscaping, especially the lawns, are constantly being stressed by overgrazing by the geese, and require annual special care and replanting. Heavy rains causing tall grass to fall over and amorous bullfrogs trying to get through our fences occasionally cause the electric fencing to fail, requiring emergency action. Rodents suddenly find our enclosures a good source of food and have to be eliminated, a rather tedious procedure. And our birds suddenly exhibit a parasite or health problem, necessitating appropriate measures with wormers or antibiotics. If it sounds like it would be a bit overwhelming at times then you're getting the picture. Overwhelming? Yes, but also terribly exciting and enormously rewarding,especially when you succeed at something unusual, like breeding an endangered species, that you've set as a goal.

IN YOUR CASE

Most of you are here either because you have a small farm and are looking for ideas, or you plan to purchase one and move to the country. It's an understatement to say things are different today than they were when I began. You no longer can simply hire or rent a dozer and start moving dirt around. Hours and dollars are required just to get the county, wildlife and ecology permits needed before you break ground. Although a little tedious, that's not necessarily bad, as these regulations are in place to make sure that environmental considerations are taken into account. SCD is still available to help, but along with changing times and attitudes about the environment come different programs. I suggest one of your first steps be to drop by their office and find out what help they can provide. You'll need a plan before you start to pursue permits to clear land or dig ponds, especially if the movement of more than 50 yards of soil is involved. If working near an existing stream or water body, be sure to consult with the Department of Fish & Wildlife for any permits and restrictions.

A lot more is known about what it takes to have good wildlife habitat on your property in western Washington than was available when I began 30 years ago. The Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife, The Departments of Natural Resources and Ecology, The Washington State University Extension and the Soil Conservation Service have all come a long way in their understanding of our habitat and wildlife needs. The difficulty you may encounter is getting information on the unique requirements of a particular species, such as salamanders, Bull trout or Grouse, for example. It's out there, but it can take some digging to find it.

I've been amazed at how naïve so many people have been when they first move to a rural setting in our area. One typical example I frequently use during my wildlife tours is really quite common. A couple is partly attracted to a piece of property by the presence of deer or grouse or Band Tailed Pigeons, for example. Then the first thing they do is cut down all the Cottonwoods, the Cascaras or the Sitka Spruce trees, the Cottonwoods because they're messy and shed branches, the Cascara because they're small and scraggly, and the Spruce because they're usually stunted by spruce budworm infestations. Within a few years they complain because the wildlife that attracted them have disappeared. The real problem is that they didn't do their homework. The cottonwoods and cascara are some of our best local wildlife food sources, and the native Sitka Spruce provides some of the best hiding places for our bird life when hawks and owls are around. The problem wasn't necessarily cutting a few trees, the problem came from destroying the balance that brought the wildlife to the property in the first place. It would have been so much better had they been aware,

and saved the balance in the first place, rather than having to spend many years trying to get it back.

Not that it's impossible to bring it back. It's not. It just takes a little hard work and a lot of patience. Remember that stump wasteland of mine that I described earlier? Well, it's now partly a productive mixture of Cedar, Hemlock, Fir, Spruce, Pine, Cottonwood, Alder, Oak, Cascara, Hawthorne, Hazelnut, Cherry and wild Crabapple. The understory still contains lots of salmonberry, but now it's mixed with elderberry, currant, dogwood, huckleberry, Oregon grape and salal, as well as several types of ferns. One of the really important considerations was to keep the rejuvenated forest contiguous with (adjacent to) the remaining existing forest, if at all possible. This is important because many of our native wildlife species, such as Ruffed Grouse, salamanders and flying squirrels, will go to great lengths to avoid crossing an open area. They seem to be aware that they have been uniquely designed by nature to live in the forest, and are at great risk of predation when they're out in the open. Don't let that keep you from creating an isolated small forest plot, as there

are lots of other species that will benefit, such as deer, rabbits, tree frogs and songbirds, that need these hiding places near a field or wetland.

A good plan is to keep in mind that many wildlife species thrive at the edges of the forest, so strive to have one or more clearings available. I've found that having places where our sometimes rare sunshine can reach the ground provides the availability of lush weed growth and insects for baby grouse and other birds and animals. I've also seen these small clearings provide much needed drying off spots for deer and other mammals when the sun returns after a sudden rain. A rock wall that heats in the afternoon sun will provide a warm overnight home to many species.

Sure there will be setbacks, but if they're anticipated they can be minimized. Deer, beaver and mountain beaver will damage some of your plantings, especially if they're not protected with special fencing or repellants. Where there's a will there's a way, especially if you're stubborn.

WETLANDS

Improving and creating aquatic areas (wetlands) can be a much more cumbersome process, both technically and legislatively. Numerous protections are in place at the county, state and federal level to try to assure that the wetlands we have left, which are only a tiny fraction of what were here originally, are protected from further destruction . As a result, all work with wetlands and their recognized buffer zones is tightly controlled. It's easy to criticize these controls as an infringement of our property rights, but the issue is no longer that simple. Studies have shown that compromising our wet areas has far greater impact than simply the direct harm to local wildlife. The small percentage of the original wetlands that are still remaining are in most cases performing a couple of critical hydralogical functions. Obviously the water that swells these wetlands has to go somewhere after a rainy period. If a wetland drains directly into an aquatic system it provides an obvious

filtering function which directly results in cleaner water entering our lakes, streams and rivers. Its bottom is also filtering water soaking away into the subsoil, and any aquifers below. The less obvious situation, where a wetland, even a small one, has no direct surface connection to other water resources, is much more difficult for some people to comprehend, but it shouldn't be. Anyone who has ever hired a well driller to dig or drill a well should understand that our underground supplies of water, known as aquifers, are not infinite, and do on occasion go dry, yes even here in western Washington. It's critical that the flow of water to our wells and all nearby springs and streams remain healthy in both quantity and quality. Our isolated little wetlands are not unimportant, every one contributes in some measure to a nearby aquifer.

You will avoid a lot of disappointment if you anticipate resistance to almost any proposal to modify a wetland. Unless you go into the effort sure that your proposed changes will have no harmful effect on the biology and hydrauligy of the area, you are doomed to failure from the start. If you don't feel qualified to make such an assessment you should consider hiring a professional. Always anticipate that the public servant who will be reviewing your proposal for approval will be inclined to take the most conservative approach, so as not to unnecessarily risk their job and future advancement. Make it as easy as possible for them to approve your proposal by making it as clear and complete as possible. Not all modifications to a wetland need to be large, a small open water area in a depression or near the edge of a peat bog if done properly can increase your local wildlife population many times over. Waterfowl, shorebirds, songbirds, salamanders, frogs, as well as almost all other species will respond to the presence of open water. It becomes the center of activity, a major enticement for wildlife to stay in the area.

TROUT PONDS

If what you desire is to construct a trout pond, be sure to get all the permit information from the Department of Wildlife regarding the stocking and keeping of trout. A site with no direct surface hydraulogical connection to other fish bearing waters has a better chance of being approved. This is because the disease and/or genetic risks to the native fish as a result of escapement of your fish is eliminated.

Just a few recommendations, in case you still are determined to create a trout pond.

A) First, make sure you have a reliable and uncontaminated source of water to feed your pond. Especially in the hottest part of the summer the pond will have to be kept reasonably full and fresh to provide the temperatures and oxygen trout will need.

B) In this state it's recommended that you avoid trying to stock anything other than trout. It's been my experience that our Department of Fish & Wildlife will oppose efforts to stock other fish, such as carp, bass, crappie, perch or catfish.

C) Unless your trout pond is very deep (10' or more), it's important to vegitate the south and west shorelines of your pond with tall trees to help keep it cool in summer.

D) Hiding places, such as what I call a tire jumble, 4 or 5 empty tires tied to a cement block and sunk to the bottom, will help some of your fish survive the occasional visit by local otters. These otters have provided us some great fun watching their playful antics, while taking very few fish. I always tie these jumbles to a point on shore for ease of cleaning if they begin to sink into the mud and debris on the bottom.

E) Losses to Great Blue Herons can be minimized by making all but one of your pond banks steep to deny them shallow water hunting sites. Of course this makes your pond more dangerous for small children, a very real consideration these days. Also, keeping one of your shorelines very gradual makes your pond much more useful for other wildlife, such as frogs, salamanders, ducks, etc.

F) Trout food can be purchased at many feed stores. I usually purchase mine from the hatchery that supplies the fish, so they are accustomed to it, reducing the shock of the move. I personally prefer floating trout food, as it's more spectacular when they thrash on the surface to take it.

KEEPING GAMEBIRDS AND WATERFOWL

Although the keeping and breeding of Gamebirds and waterfowl will not appeal to everyone, it is very popular with many people the world over. As vice president of an international waterfowl breeding organization I have had the pleasure of visiting waterfowl and gamebird collections from South Africa to far north Norway and Alaska. I've found the same excitement about being able to work closely with some of the most spectacular of our feathered friends wherever I've been. One caution however, if you think you're going to make big-bucks, you're going to be dissappointed.

For those just thinking, or just starting out, there is a lot more information available now than there was when I started. Most states have a game bird and waterfowl breeding club, and Washington is no exception. In our Washington organization monthly meeting are held at private and public collections around the state. In Snohomish County my wife and I host one each year, usually in April. It's a great way to see what others are doing and get ideas for yourself. There are also a couple of good magazines available. For more information, give me a call, or check out the links in my website. Bird breeders are exceptional when it comes to helping newcomers get started.

One of your first jobs, if you're interested, is to determine if your interests, or your property limitations, limit your selection in species to raise. Whether it be doves, quail, pheasants, peafowl or waterfowl, or any others, they all have certain requirements to be met, if you're going to be successful. Even within each of these families of birds, there are many distinct species and subspecies, almost all with different needs and characteristics. This first step is made much easier if you take the time to visit a collection or join a club, as the selection of materials available either in your public library or on the internet is fairly narrow, as it is limited by the experiences and the home environment of the author. The feed needs, predator problems, seasonal weather limitations and disease and parasite vulnerability all vary from region to region, therefore the advice provided by a breeder in Kentucky, or even one from Idaho, may not be equally relevant here.

Aviary size, waterfowl pond depth, dirty water disposal, snow and freeze considerations, and a reliable local feed distributor are just some of the preliminary problems that you will find challenging. In most, but not all cases they are all solvable. The advice of a successful local breeder will provide a good place to start here too, and can help you avoid much of the confusion, heartbreak and financial losses in getting started. Some of the confusion will result from familiarizing yourself with governmental licensing requirements. In the case of native migratory waterfowl, both state and federal propagating licenses are required if you plan to raise waterfowl to sell. Here in Washington, no licenses are required if you simply wish to keep a few birds for your own enjoyment. In that case you simply need to retain the special receipt you will get with the birds from a licensed breeder, to prove you came by the birds legally. If you do wish to raise a surplus to sell, the Washington State License is issued by our Department of Fish & Wildlife from their Olympia offices, although the application forms can be obtained from any of their regional offices. The US Fish & Wildlife Service propagating permits are issued out of their Portland, Oregon office for breeders here in the Pacific Flyway.

As discussed earlier, deterring predators is a must if you are to have any long-term success. This is primarily accomplished by three pen design considerations. In order to stop digging predators, such as racoons, opposums and mink, you will need to bury the bottom of your fencing, preferably 12" or more. To discourage climbing predators, such as weasels and racoons, it is best to install electric fencing 12" to 18" above the ground and 1 1/2" out from the primary fence. The third, for protection from flying predators, is to net over the tops of your aviaries. This also allows you to keep your birds in full-flighted condition, adding immesurably to your pleasure. There are several sources for this aviary top netting.

While common waterfowl and gamebirds will thrive on ordinary poultry and gamebird feeds, the more difficult and rarer species often require specialty feeds. These specialty feeds can usually be found under the Mazuri label, which is the zoological branch of the Purina Feed Company, and has a nationwide distribution network. It's expensive, but available. In some cases a feed dealer that advertizes the Purina brand feeds does not carry the Mazuri Specialty feeds, but is willing to order them if you'll commit to a certain amount.

One last item important to consider when planning to keep any farm type animal out of doors, is the inevitable invasion of your facilities by rats or mice, attracted by uneaten or spilled feed. They are usually discovered by the gradual appearance of a burrow or hole, followed by another, and then another. Leaving rodentcide out for them all the time has not been at all effective for me, as it seems that the occasional death of a member of the population only seems to make the rest of them wiser, and they avoid the bait stations. The method I have found successful is to place several bait stations near the pathways they appear to be using. Instead of immediately baiting them with rodentcide I feed a good quality feed for as long as it takes (usually a week or more) to get the whole population trained to eat out of the stations. All other feed is picked up at night. When it is obvious by the amount of feed consumed that many rodents are using the stations, then and only then, are they filled with a quality rodentcide. Within days it is obvious that the stations are doing their job. Although most rodents die underground, their burrows begin to collapse after the first heavy rain from lack of maintenance.

While many of you may find killing rodents as unpleasant as I do, it's an important part of protecting the health of your livestock.

CONCLUSION

I hope I've given each of you a few ideas that will help you with your own farms. Remember, for native wildlife, think food plants and habitat. For livestock, be it domestic or wild species, think cleanliness, protection from danger, and a quality diet. Any animal confined in any way on your property is 100% your responsibility. Be a caring keeper. The rewards are truly outstanding!