By Paul Dye, (Notes from classes provided at local nurseries)

There's no magic to creating a productive wildlife-friendly garden, just good common sense, with an eye on the natural world that surrounds us all.  Most of us get so caught up in our everyday lives that we lose sight of the most basic tenets of the lives of the wild creatures outside our homes.

One of the most important considerations when trying to make a garden attractive to a multitude of wildlife species is the layering of plant types.  By providing food and cover (hiding places) at several different heights, you will be accommodating a wider variety of species at the same time.  At each of these heights you should strive to provide a combination of evergreen and deciduous plants to maximize the habitat value. Also strive for a variety of plant densities, with some clumped, some spaced, and some open areas.  It's also a good idea to preplan your pathways through the garden so you can quietly enjoy the residents without damaging your plants.  A winding path usually allows closer approach to the wildlife being observed.

Probably the best book available for someone in western Washington, Oregon, and southern BC trying to make their property more attractive for wildlife is Russell Link's book "Landscaping for Wildlife In The Pacific Northwest", available for $28 from the Department of Wildlife's Mill Creek Office. It deals with the use of both native and non native plants.  It's ISBN number is 0-295-97820-1.

Native plants are a good starting point, and I believe should form the core and be at least 50 or 60 % of your garden.  Some plants should be included in your wildlife garden just simply because they're your favorites, such as my wife's hostas and my rhododendrons.  This not only makes your garden more fun, but lets it reflect your individuality.  Also, don't overlook some plant species with proven wildlife value just because they're not native.  Good examples of this are the barley I plant in my fields, the aronia and winterberry I plant in wet areas, and the pyracantha that grows so rampantly along the south wall of my toolshed.  The barley feeds waterfowl, quail, and many other species as they migrate through each fall, and the others hold their berries well into winter, providing food for those residents and late migrants that might otherwise find the going rough in this area.

WILDFLOWERS AT THE EDGE OF BARLEY FIELD

If you are here in the NW, and you do decide to use a majority of native plants in a new garden area, I suggest paying special attention to native plant associations as described in Michael Leigh's book "Grow Your Own Native Landscape", available for $6 from WSU Extension.  Select from the group of plants in the association that fits your garden's sun and soil moisture, but begin with those described as beneficial to the wildlife (birds, butterflies, mammals) that you hope to attract.

Getting started, avoiding discouraging mistakes - Start with a plan, or at least a good idea of what you want to accomplish.  If the garden is to be a woodland garden and have a path it's best to start there and radiate out from that point, starting with ground covers, then your shrubs or understory, and finally your trees or canopy.  The reason for this approach is that you not only want to be able to see and enjoy your wildlife visitors, but also the blooms, foliage and fruits on the different layers of plants.  The ultimate size of your largest trees must be determined by the amount of room you have to work with, so that then becomes your other critical parameter.

Soil, fertilizer, shade and moisture considerations are much the same as for any other type of gardening, and vary species to species.  In general, most native species will require a little less care after they're established, as they are uniquely suited to the soils and climate of this area. I've found that by careful application of slow release fertilizers I can help to accelerate the growth of certain plants if I so desire.  Be careful though, as some plants, like our NW native Pacific Dogwood do not respond well to fertilizer.  Other species, such as madrona, cannot tolerate a high soil moisture saturation, and will only thrive in a really well drained site.  Still others, like salal and bunchberry, can be hard to establish in ordinary garden soil, but take right off when planted in the rotten wood from a decayed old stump.

In the case of the easier to work with species of plants it's definitely better to start with larger 2 to 5 gallon sized plants, if you can afford to do so. You will not only be able to enjoy your wildlife visitors that much quicker, but you will avoid having to go to such great lengths to protect your plants from the rabbits, moles, slugs and other creatures already there.

Since I am usually trying to landscape an acre or more a year I have no choice, I have to use small plants in most cases.  I manage to have reasonable success with small plants by finding a way to protect them until their root systems develop to the point their growth can more than offset any damage done by domestic animals and wildlife already resident to the area.  From the photos I passed around you can see that I make extensive use of temporary fencing and plant pots with their bottoms removed, inverted and placed over young plants to protect then at least their first year.

I strongly suggest that if you're unfamiliar with the needs of the wildlife of this area, that you obtain the books mentioned earlier.  Select the groundcover, understory and canopy plants you use from those recommended for the wildlife you hope to attract. In almost every case you'll attract far more species than you ever imagined.

Some garden features to consider in addition to plants -  Birdhouses, bird feeders, birdbaths, covered dustbaths and garden ponds are all features that not only make your garden more attractive to birds, but to other wildlife and human visitors as well.  Here in the damp northwest I've found that you can make rock walls an attractive feature for heat-loving species, such as salamanders, garter snakes and chipmonks, with a slightly customized design.  If the wall design is exposed to the southwest, where it gets afternoon sun, I make the bottom two or three levels of rocks at least two rocks thick.  This way when the rocks heat up in the afternoon they provide heat to those who seek shelter in the air spaces within well into the night. 

The rewards will come - but don't forget a bench - Have you ever taken a holiday to one of those memorable places where the springtime songs of dozens of birds wake you each morning, and where wild little critters scamper away at your approach?  I have.  Why not strive to turn your own garden in to just such a haven. You can.

A keen attention to detail, especially noting what plants others in your area have used to good avail is a good way to begin.  Get planting, but remember, as your plants mature so will you.  Get a bench, some day you'll need it so you can reap your rewards.

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(I have had some success with these plants here in western Washington state)

Following plant name I list sun/shade and soil moisture tolerance and wildlife benefit.

GROUNDCOVERS
Bunchberry - sun/shade, moist, berries
Bleeding Heart - shade, moist, nectar
Cotoneaster - evergreen, sun/shade, moist/dry, berries/cover
False Lilly of the Valley - shade, wet, berries
Ferns (all) - sun/shade, moist/dry, cover
Heather - sun, moist/dry, nectar
Kinnikinnik - sun/part shade, moist/dry, berries
Oregon Grape - sun/shade, moist/dry, berries/cover
Salal - sun/shade, moist, berries/cover
Wild Strawberry - sun/part shade, moist, berries
Wintergreen - shade, moist/dry, berries